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Construction

Richard Sorger

Richard Sorger is Associate Professor and Course Leader for MA Fashion at Kingston University, UK. He has taught at all levels of fashion education at institutions such as Middlesex University and London College of Fashion. From 2006 to 2011 he designed for his eponymous label and his clothes have been worn by Courtney Love, Florence Welch and Miley Cyrus. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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and

Jenny Udale

Jenny Udale is a lecturer at the University of Middlesex and Ravensbourne College, UK. Jenny is also a freelance textile and womanswear designer. She is the author of the first edition of Textiles and Fashion (AVA Publishing, 2008) and the co-author of The Fundamentals of Fashion Design, 2nd edition (2012). Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Fundamentals of Fashion Design

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2017

Book chapter

...Construction is the foundation of clothing and fashion design. As this chapter demonstrates, it is both a technical and a design issue; garments need seams and darts in order to render a two-dimensional fabric into a three-dimensional piece...

Design Details

Janace E. Bubonia

Janace E. Bubonia, PhD, is Professor and Chair of the Department of Design, Merchandising and Textiles at Texas Christian University. She has taught classes in design and product development, fashion illustration, fashion show production, promotion, and textile testing among others. She is a member of the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Apparel Production Terms and Processes

Fairchild Books, 2017

Book chapter

...Fashion trends and styling determine the type and amount of shaping or fullness that become the design element of the garment. A designer achieves silhouette, style, and proportion through the placement of fabric grainlines, design lines...

Bodice Seamlines and Fullness

Nora M. MacDonald

Nora M. MacDonald is a professor at West Virginia University. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Principles of Flat-Pattern Design

Fairchild Publications, 2010

Book chapter

...Many bodice design variations can be developed by producing dart-equivalent seamlines, yokes, or style lines, or by adding fullness. For example, (1) dart lines can be extended to form a continuous line across the pattern, thereby creating...

Stitches

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Connie Amaden-Crawford is President and CEO of Fashion Patterns by Coni, a member of the Sewing Hall of Fame, and a licensed designer for The McCall Pattern Company under the Butterick label. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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A Guide to Fashion Sewing

Fairchild Books, 2015

Book chapter

...By studying the information in this chapter, the designer will be able to:Learn hand stitching methods.Learn sewing machine stitching guidelines.Learn basic stitch length.Identify basic stitches.Identify the zigzag stitch.Identify top...

Garment Construction Details

Janace E. Bubonia

Janace E. Bubonia, PhD, is Professor and Chair of the Department of Design, Merchandising and Textiles at Texas Christian University. She has taught classes in design and product development, fashion illustration, fashion show production, promotion, and textile testing among others. She is a member of the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Apparel Quality : A Guide To Evaluating Sewn Products

Fairchild Books, 2014

Book chapter

...To examine garment shaping methods to achieve fitTo provide an overview of commonly selected openings, facings, closures, and hem finishes used for mass produced apparelTo understand the importance of closure selection for apparel items...

Styles, Lines, and Details for Shape and Fit

Jaeil Lee

Jaeil Lee is a Professor and Director of Clothing and Textiles Program in the Department of Family and Consumer Science at Seattle Pacific University, USA. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Camille Steen

Camille Steen is Technical Designer Manager at Ex Officio LLC, USA, a leading maker of travel apparel. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Technical Sourcebook for Apparel Designers

Fairchild Books, 2018

Book chapter

...After studying this chapter, you will be able to:Identify various styles, lines, and details used for shapingCommunicate various styles, lines, and details orally and in writingExplore various garment shaping devices and how...

Skirt

Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Helen Joseph-Armstrong is a Professor of Fashion Design at the Fashion Center of the Los Angeles Trade-Technical College, USA. A teacher, designer, consultant, and author, Armstrong is a recipient of the Nisod Excellence Award from the University of Texas at Austin and a Life Time Achievement Award from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Draping for Apparel Design

Fairchild Publications, 2013

Book chapter

...Design 1: A-Line Skirt with Modified F areDesign 2: Full-Flare SkirtDesign 3: Flared Skirt with Increased HemlineDesign 4: Fu l-Circle SkirtDesign 5: Circular Skirt with Offset CircleDesign 6: All-Around Pleated SkirtDesign 7: Stylized Yoke...

Manipulating Dart Excess and Adding Fullness

Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Helen Joseph-Armstrong is a Professor of Fashion Design at the Fashion Center of the Los Angeles Trade-Technical College, USA. A teacher, designer, consultant, and author, Armstrong is a recipient of the Nisod Excellence Award from the University of Texas at Austin and a Life Time Achievement Award from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Draping for Apparel Design

Fairchild Publications, 2013

Book chapter

...Design 1: French DartDesign 2: Armhole DartDesign 3: Shoulder DartDesign 4: Center Front (Bust) DartDesign 5: Waist/Side Dart FoundationDesign 6: Waist/Shoulder DartDesign 7: Curved DartDesign 8: Intersecting DartsDesign 9: Asymmetric...

Designing with Circular Flounces and Ruffles

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Connie Amaden-Crawford is President and CEO of Fashion Patterns by Coni, a member of the Sewing Hall of Fame, and a licensed designer for The McCall Pattern Company under the Butterick label. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Art of Fashion Draping

Fairchild Books, 2018

Book chapter

...Circular Flounce DesignsGathered FlounceMaking PeplumsGathered Ruffle Designs Designing with Circular Flounces and Ruffles Designs with a circular flounce are the stuff of romance. Flounces recall a mood of elegance with a rich...

Creating Texture with Pleats, Tucks, Gathers, Ruffles, and Trims

Sharon Czachor

Sharon Czachor is an adjunct instructor in the fashion department of Harper College in Illinois, USA. She has taught construction classes in skirts, blouses, pants, dresses, jackets, as well as classes on flat pattern drafting and draping, introduction to CAD pattern design, stretch knits (sportswear, daywear, and children’s wear), including embellishments. She has also taught at the College of DuPage, Illinois, USA. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics

Fairchild Books, 2016

Book chapter

...Knits already have a texture of their own; some are obvious in the types of fibers that are used, others more subtle, as in a knitted design. Adding fabric manipulation techniques (any technique that changes the surface of the fabric...