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Jonathan Faiers

Jonathan Faiers is Professor of Fashion Thinking at Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK, publishes internationally on fashion and textiles, and is editor of the journal Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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...History and Significance of Tartan in Clothing How tartan reached its current status of global fashionable popularity is in many respects the history of tartan itself. From its origins as a textile traditionally worn and woven...

Fashioning Zeitgeist

Mackinney-Valentin Maria

Maria Mackinney-Valentin is an Associate Professor at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design, Denmark. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashioning Identity Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2017

Book chapter

...It was 1984 and I was spending Christmas with my American family in North Carolina. I was 13. My uncle Jack gave me a red and black plaid flannel shirt, and as with most things at that point in my life, it made me feel awkward. I did...
...Footage Referenced Alexander McQueen, Autumn/Winter 1995: “Highland Rape”Introduction Alexander McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 1995 runway show entitled “Highland Rape” was undisputedly a turning point in his career. Called “misogynistic” by some...
...The Collection in Context When the British designer Vivienne Westwood presented her fall/winter 1993–1994 collection, she had already wowed the fashion crowd with her subversive takes on traditional craftsmanship and historical costumes...

North American Lumberjack Dress

Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion Volume 3 : The United States and Canada

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Lumberjack culture began with the everyday life of male immigrants to the rural United States in the 1800s. For nearly a century, lumberjacks—with their associated titles of shantymen, woodmen, riverpigs and loggers—moved out of economic...
...Footage Referenced Vivienne Westwood, Autumn/Winter 1993: “Anglomania” Alexander McQueen, Autumn/Winter 1995: “Highland Rape” Chanel, Spring/Summer 1994 Christian Francis Roth, Spring/Summer 1993 John Galliano, Autumn/Winter...

Punk Style Past and Present

Monica Sklar

Monica Sklar obtained her PhD in Design-Apparel Studies from the University of Minnesota. She has taught several college-level courses in dress and retailing, and has published widely on the subject of punk fashion. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Punk Style

Bloomsbury Academic, 2018

Book chapter

...Quite a few summers ago I went on a vacation that included a tour of Amish country in the eastern United States. I paid to take the tour and glimpse what Amish life was all about. Something grabbed me about a group of content outsiders who...


Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion Volume 8 : West Europe

Berg, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...By 1800, those people in Scotland who could afford it dressed in the style of clothing usually known as fashionable West European. This was no different from the dress of others of their class within Britain. There is no folk dress...