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Madeleine Vionnet (1876–1975)

Brenda Polan

Brenda Polan is a fashion writer, editor, lecturer and academic. She was formerly fashion editor and women’s page editor of The Guardian and has since written for all Britain’s major newspapers and many magazines. She was until recently Programme Director (Media) at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Roger Tredre

Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Communication, at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Prior to his academic career, he worked in newspaper fashion journalism and was the first Editor-in-Chief of WGSN, the online fashion trends and research business. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Great Fashion Designers : From Chanel to McQueen, the names that made fashion history

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020

Book chapter

...Grecian-style model in Vionnet, Vogue, 1931. Photo: George Hoyningen-Huene/Condé Nast via Getty Images.Vionnet fast established a reputation for purity of vision.In the fledgling years of the twentieth century, Madeleine Vionnet helped...

Bias and Bias Treatments

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Connie Amaden-Crawford is President and CEO of Fashion Patterns by Coni, a member of the Sewing Hall of Fame, and a licensed designer for The McCall Pattern Company under the Butterick label. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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A Guide to Fashion Sewing

Fairchild Books, 2015

Book chapter

...By studying the information in this chapter, the designer will be able to:Learn the uses of bias.Learn to cut bias.Learn to join bias strips correctly.Learn to sew a single bias binding.Learn to sew a French bias binding.Learn to sew a Hong...

Bias Cut Dresses and Twist

Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Helen Joseph-Armstrong is a Professor of Fashion Design at the Fashion Center of the Los Angeles Trade-Technical College, USA. A teacher, designer, consultant, and author, Armstrong is a recipient of the Nisod Excellence Award from the University of Texas at Austin and a Life Time Achievement Award from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Draping for Apparel Design

Fairchild Publications, 2013

Book chapter

...Design 1: Slip Dress—Empire StyleDesign 2: Slip Dress—VariationDesign 3: Bias Dress with a Twist TopDesign 4: High Neck TwistDesign 5: Radiating Folds from Bust LevelDesign 6: Dress with Radiating TwistDesign 7: Yoke Twists—DividedDesign 8:...

Draping Principles and Skills

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Connie Amaden-Crawford is President and CEO of Fashion Patterns by Coni, a member of the Sewing Hall of Fame, and a licensed designer for The McCall Pattern Company under the Butterick label. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Art of Fashion Draping

Fairchild Books, 2018

Book chapter

...» Design Development» Selecting Fabric» Elements of Fabric» Understanding Grainlines and Crossgrains» Draping Preparation» Principles of Balanced Patterns» Seam Allowances» Notching Guidelines Draping Principles and Skills Draping...

Identifying Fashion Fabrics

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Connie Amaden-Crawford is President and CEO of Fashion Patterns by Coni, a member of the Sewing Hall of Fame, and a licensed designer for The McCall Pattern Company under the Butterick label. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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A Guide to Fashion Sewing

Fairchild Books, 2015

Book chapter

...By studying the information in this chapter, the designer will be able to:Build knowledge of various fabrics, fibers, and finishes.Understand the care requirements of various fabrics.Evaluate and select fabrics compatible with the garment...

Drapery, Bias, and Cowls

Steven Stipelman

Steven Stipelman is a professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology. He has taught at Parsons School of Design and Marist College and has conducted workshops at colleges and universities around the country. In addition to working as staff illustrator at Henri Bendel in New York City, Stipelman was a fashion artist at Women&s Wear Daily for 25 years. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Illustrating Fashion : Concept to Creation

Fairchild Books, 2017

Book chapter

...Drapery is fabric falling on or away from the body. A draped garment forms folds of fabric, which can hug, wrap, or fall away from the figure. It can be intricately manipulated around a certain part of the body or float completely away from...

Cowls

Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Helen Joseph-Armstrong is a Professor of Fashion Design at the Fashion Center of the Los Angeles Trade-Technical College, USA. A teacher, designer, consultant, and author, Armstrong is a recipient of the Nisod Excellence Award from the University of Texas at Austin and a Life Time Achievement Award from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Draping for Apparel Design

Fairchild Publications, 2013

Book chapter

...Design 1: High Relaxed CowlDesign 2: Mid-Depth CowlDesign 3: Low CowlDesign 4: Deep Cowl with BustierDesign 5: Pleated CowlsDesign 6: Three-Pleated CowlDesign 7: Multiple Cowls and PleatsDesign 8: Draped Cowls from Style LinesDesign 9...

Pattern Cutting

Anette Fischer

Anette Fischer is a Senior Lecturer specializing in 3D Development on the BA (Hons) Fashion course at the University of the Creative Arts, Epsom. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Kiran Gobin

Kiran Gobin is a creative pattern cutter and a lecturer in Fashion Design at Middlesex University, London, UK. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Construction for Fashion Design

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2017

Book chapter

...Like all craft skills, pattern cutting can at first seem difficult and intimidating. But with a basic understanding of the rules to be followed (and broken!), the aspiring designer will soon learn interesting, challenging and creative...

Bodice and Blouse Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Connie Amaden-Crawford is President and CEO of Fashion Patterns by Coni, a member of the Sewing Hall of Fame, and a licensed designer for The McCall Pattern Company under the Butterick label. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Art of Fashion Draping

Fairchild Books, 2018

Book chapter

...Waist Midriff BlouseBodice with Bustline ShirringBlouse with Shoulder Pleats/GathersAsymmetric Wrap BlouseBias Halter BlouseEmpire Styled Blouse Bodice and Blouse Designs The bodice and blouse designs in this group are kept simple...

Patterns for Fabric Used on the Bias Grainline

Lori A. Knowles

Lori A. Knowles worked for 13 years as a patternmaker and production manager for Marie Clayden Inc. in Los Gatos, CA, and taught for nine years at West Valley College in the department of Fashion Design and Apparel Technology. She has had a consuming interest in vintage clothing and costuming since childhood and possesses a large Edwardian and Victorian clothing collection that includes pieces dating back to the 1840s. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Juniors, Misses, and Women

Fairchild Publications, 2005

Book chapter

...Introduction True bias was introduced in Chapter 1. There, it was explained that the true bias grainline on fabric is at a 45-degree angle to the straight grain or the cross grain. When a garment is cut with the true bias grainline running...