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Image Makers of Fashionable Shanghai, 1910–30

Styling Shanghai

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020

Book chapter

...Of the many vicissitudes that contributed to China’s modernization – its conversion into an international, industrial and urban society – those in visual and consumer culture were among the most prominent. The shift in Chinese dress...


Hairstyles and Fashion : A Hairdresser’s History of Paris, 1910–1920

Oxford International Publishers Ltd., 1999

Book chapter

...January 1912: The Wearing of Plume In the face of the universal increase in cost of all commodities and the excessive degree to which the grandes modistes have raised the charges for their millinery, many ladies have reduced the quantity...

Fashion in the Gilded Age: A Profile of Newport’s King Family

Twentieth-Century American Fashion

Berg, 2008

Book chapter

...Editors’ Introduction: By the turn of the twentieth century Americans had seen tremendous growth through industrialization. While this progress aided the development of a substantial middle class, there were still large numbers of European...

Georg Simmel: Clothes and Fashion

Michael Carter

Michael Carter is Senior Lecturer in Art History and Theory, University of Sydney. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes

Berg, 2003

Book chapter

...Fashion is haughty, trifling, affected, servile, despotic, mean and ambitious, precise and fantastical, all in a breath – tied to no rule, and bound to conform to every whim of the minute.German sociologist and social philosopher Georg...

Dress of the Ranas of Nepal

Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion Volume 4 : South Asia and Southeast Asia

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Rana rule in Nepal began in 1846, when, against a background of internecine strife within the ruling elite, Jung Bahadur (1816–1877) seized power. By 1850 Jung Bahadur had removed all his rivals, installed a new king on the throne...

Early French Fashion Photography

Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion Volume 8 : West Europe

Berg, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...The desire to represent nature as it was marked the advent of photography, with as much detail as the lens would permit. Photography in the early 1800s, as Frenchman Louis Daguerre developed it in the daguerreotype, used a technique...


The Berg Companion to Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Although many of Lady Duff-Gordon’s claims to originality and innovation are now discredited, her high-end dressmaking firm Lucile remains a potent example of early British couture. Although at the forefront of designing and merchanting...

The Slit Skirt

Fashion and Modernism

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2019

Book chapter

...The slit skirt in the early 1910s The slit skirt made a significant appearance in the European and American high fashion at the beginning of the 1910s, in conjunction with the diffusion of the modern social dances, and the new experience...

“Every girl had a fan which she kept always in motion”:

Dilia López-Gydosh

Dilia López-Gydosh

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Marsha A. Dickson

Marsha Dickson is a professor and Chairperson of the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Latin American Fashion Reader

Berg Publishers, 2005

Book chapter

...The quote “Every girl had a fan which she kept always in motion” is part of an observation made by an American writer who attended an aristocratic ball in Puerto Rico in 1899. See Samoiloff (1984: 101).In 1898 the island of Puerto Rico...

‘The Epidemic of Purple, White and Green’: Fashion and the Suffragette Movement in Britain 1908–14

Wendy Parkins

Wendy Parkins is Senior Lecturer in the Department of English, University of Otago, New Zealand. She is the editor of Fashioning the Body Politic: Dress, Gender, Citizenship. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashioning the Body Politic : Dress, Gender, Citizenship

Berg Publishers, 2002

Book chapter

...In her humorous pamphlet entitled ‘Infection: A Warning to Anti-Suffragists and Anti-Militants’,‘Infection’ was originally published in The Suffragist in October 1909, but subsequently reprinted as a pamphlet. the suffragette Rose Lamartine...