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  • 1816-1899
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Unrepentant Dandies: William Thackeray’s Pendennis

Clair Hughes

Clair Hughes is an independent scholar. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Dressed in Fiction

Berg, 2006

Book chapter

...Dress in many novels is conventional. It is rarely uninteresting, since even when writers simply follow what other writers are doing with fictional clothing, they show some features of their style and view of the world in describing it....

Demimonde

The Berg Companion to Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Nineteenth-century Paris was acknowledged by contemporaries as the “capital of pleasure” (Rearick, p. 40). Its reputation as a city of diversions and licentiousness was established following the Revolution and Reign of Terror during...

‘Mind and Millinery’: George Eliot’s Middlemarch

Clair Hughes

Clair Hughes is an independent scholar. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Dressed in Fiction

Berg, 2006

Book chapter

...For Henry James, George Eliot represented the furthest end of the literary spectrum from Mrs Braddon – ‘If she is not George Eliot’, he said of the novelist Mrs Craik, ‘neither is she Mrs Braddon.’ Henry James, Literary Criticism, Vol.1...

Fashion Reform

Fashion in Fiction : Text and Clothing in Literature, Film, and Television

Berg, 2009

Book chapter

...Emerging from the late nineteenth-century welter of reform efforts that addressed everything from social ills to fashion and home décor, the Aesthetic Movement took as its central tenet the importance of the visual as a guiding component...

Herbert Spencer’s Sartorial Protestantism

Michael Carter

Michael Carter is Senior Lecturer in Art History and Theory, University of Sydney. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes

Berg, 2003

Book chapter

...If we go back far enough we find that …Other than by specialists in intellectual history, the work of Herbert Spencer (1820–1903) is seldom read these days, yet the writings of those whom he influenced, thinkers such as Durkheim, Veblen...

Thomas Carlyle and ‘Sartor Resartus’

Michael Carter

Michael Carter is Senior Lecturer in Art History and Theory, University of Sydney. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes

Berg, 2003

Book chapter

...perhaps only a german savant could do the subject full justice.One night, at some point early in the nineteenth century, a rather strange individual called Professor Diogenes Teufelsdröckh stands at his study window high above the German...
...Introduction The aim of this chapter is refine the model of long-term social processes proposed by Elias (1994) in the Civilizing Process by concentrating on one particular development in the early history of ballet, the transition from...

Jeanne Paquin (1869–1936)

Brenda Polan

Brenda Polan is a fashion writer, editor, lecturer and academic. She was formerly fashion editor and women’s page editor of The Guardian and has since written for all Britain’s major newspapers and many magazines. She was until recently Programme Director (Media) at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Roger Tredre

Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Communication, at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Prior to his academic career, he worked in newspaper fashion journalism and was the first Editor-in-Chief of WGSN, the online fashion trends and research business. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Great Fashion Designers : From Chanel to McQueen, the names that made fashion history

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020

Book chapter

...Paquin saw fashion as part of the broader cultural picture.Jeanne Paquin was the queen of haute couture for nearly thirty years. She was the first major female couturier, running one of the biggest couture houses of the early twentieth...

Brummell, George (Beau)*

The Berg Companion to Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...George Bryan Brummell (or Brummel), most famously known as “Beau" Brummell, was born in Britain in 1778 and died in 1840 in France. His dress and demeanor established many of the canons of dandyism. Although he was not an aristocrat...

Issue 7

P. N. Furbank

P.N. Furbank is Emeritus Professor, Open University. He has published extensively in literary studies, including Diderot, and was the first winner of the Truman Capote Award for a Work of Literary Criticism. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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A. M. Cain

A.M. Cain is a freelance translator. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Mallarmé on Fashion : A Translation of the Fashion Magazine La Dernière mode, with Commentary

Berg Publishers, 2004

Book chapter

...There being, according to Mme de Ponty’s forecast, no great change in fashion to be expected over the next fortnight, she turns her attention to children’s clothes. Her rules regarding them are, as always, very complicated and very...