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  • Rei Kawakubo
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Dolce & Gabbana: Deep South

Barbara Vinken

Barbara Vinken is Professor of French Literature, University of Zurich. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashion Zeitgeist : Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System

Berg, 2005

Book chapter

...Dolce & Gabbana have followed the classic Italian trek, from the south to the north, the same way taken by the impoverished farm-workers from Sicily who became industrial proletariat in Turin and Milan. This path has left its mark...
...Footage Referenced Issey Miyake, Spring/Summer 1999 Comme des Garçons, Spring/Summer 1991 Comme des Garçons, Autumn/Winter 1992 Yohji Yamamoto, Autumn/Winter 1991 Yohji Yamamoto, Autumn/Winter 1996Introduction Three contemporary Japanese...
...History and Significance of Capes and Cloaks The cape and the cloak, body coverings (usually without sleeves) that fall loosely around the wearer’s body from the shoulder, have been worn for centuries around the globe by men and women...
...The Collection in Context The fashion show took place at the Conciergerie in Paris, where Marie Antoinette was guillotined, and it was scheduled back to back with Margiela’s presentation. Kawakubo said that the decision was based...
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...Rei Kawakubo’s Spring/Summer 1990 show for Comme des Garcons ‘Refresh The Spirits’ was presented at Paris Fashion Week. Each segment of the collection encompassed Kawakubo’s skill for pairing master tailoring with fabric manipulation...
...The Collection in Context This menswear collection pictured the male as an older creative person. This was in line with the fashionable dressing of the day as proposed by other menswear designers, who moved away from staid suits to embrace...

Japanese Innovation

Bradley Quinn

Bradley Quinn is an author, journalist and independent scholar with expertise in fashion, textiles and design. His books include Techno Fashion, The Fashion of Architecture, Chinese Style, Scandinavian Style and Mid-century Modern. As his survey of fashion and textile technology charts recent developments, Quinn explores the furthermost boundaries of what the new generation of textiles can achieve. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Techno Fashion

Berg Publishers, 2002

Book chapter

...Provocative, radical, unwearable, incomprehensible: descriptions like these often reference the work of Japanese designers. Finding words to describe their approach is difficult because the conceptual nature of their clothes often defies...
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...Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons' womenswear Spring/Summer 1992 collection was shown at Paris Fashion Week. The collection was titled 'Unfinished' and garments reflected this with frayed hems, unsewn side seams, exposed pocket linings...
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...Rei Kawakubo’s Autumn/Winter 1994 show ‘Metamorphosis’ for Comme des Garcons was presented at Paris Fashion Week. It featured deconstructed military jackets and vests, matched with midi and maxi plisse skirts, along with long slip dresses...
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...Rei Kawakubo’s Spring/Summer 1996 show ‘Kaleidoscope’ for Comme des Garcons was presented at Paris fashion week. This carnivalesque springtime show drew on the style shifts of the 60s, and were enlivened with non-consecutive patches...