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  • Jeanne Paquin
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...This text focuses on the shift in fashionable colors that occurred prior to the First World War, when intense and contrasting hues replaced harmonious pastels. The change in color sensibility was noted by contemporaries; the artist Henri...

Paquin, Jeanne

The Berg Companion to Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Jeanne Paquin (1869–1936) was the first woman to gain international celebrity in the fashion business. Her design career spanned the three decades from 1891 to 1920. She was born Jeanne Marie Charlotte Beckers in l’Ile Saint-Denis...

Jeanne Paquin (1869–1936)

Brenda Polan

Brenda Polan is a fashion writer, editor, lecturer and academic. She was formerly fashion editor and women’s page editor of The Guardian and has since written for all Britain’s major newspapers and many magazines. She was until recently Programme Director (Media) at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Roger Tredre

Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Communication, at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Prior to his academic career, he worked in newspaper fashion journalism and was the first Editor-in-Chief of WGSN, the online fashion trends and research business. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Great Fashion Designers : From Chanel to McQueen, the names that made fashion history

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020

Book chapter

...Paquin saw fashion as part of the broader cultural picture.Jeanne Paquin was the queen of haute couture for nearly thirty years. She was the first major female couturier, running one of the biggest couture houses of the early twentieth...

Into the Twentieth Century

Valerie Steele

Often quoted in media, Valerie Steele has been the subject of profiles in Forbes and The New York Times, and was listed in the New York Daily News “Fashion’s 50 Most Powerful.” She is Director and Chief Curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (MFIT) and has curated more than 20 exhibitions in the past ten years. She is also Editor-in-chief of Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture (Berg) and the author of numerous books, including Gothic: Dark Glamour; The Corset: A Cultural History; Paris Fashion; Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now; Fetish: Fashion, Sex and Power; and Women of Fashion: 20th-Century Designers. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Paris Fashion : A Cultural History

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2017

Book chapter

...Illustration by Paul Iribe from Les Robes de Paul Poiret, 1908.Interviewed in 1903 about their favorite brand of corset, Mme. Réjane said, “pas besoin,” [no need] and Mlle Eve Lavaliére replied, “Je nien porte pas” [I don’t wear one].If you...

Setting the Stage: Salons of Seduction

Jess Berry

Jess Berry is Senior Lecturer in Design History and Theory at Monash University, Australia. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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House of Fashion : Haute Couture and the Modern Interior

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2018

Book chapter

...This chapter examines the strategies used by late-nineteenth and early-twentieth-century designers to promote and display their fashions. In particular, it emphasizes the role of the interior design of the salon to produce an enhanced...

Art Nouveau and Art Deco

The Berg Companion to Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Art nouveau design penetrated into all types of modern, luxury European decorative arts in the period from 1895 to 1905. Its undulating vegetal curves and graceful floral swirls were also a design gift to the Parisian couturiers and until...