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  • 1891-1899
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Jeanne Paquin (1869–1936)

Brenda Polan

Brenda Polan is a fashion writer, editor, lecturer and academic. She was formerly fashion editor and women’s page editor of The Guardian and has since written for all Britain’s major newspapers and many magazines. She was until recently Programme Director (Media) at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Roger Tredre

Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Communication, at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Prior to his academic career, he worked in newspaper fashion journalism and was the first Editor-in-Chief of WGSN, the online fashion trends and research business. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Great Fashion Designers : From Chanel to McQueen, the names that made fashion history

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020

Book chapter

...Paquin saw fashion as part of the broader cultural picture.Jeanne Paquin was the queen of haute couture for nearly thirty years. She was the first major female couturier, running one of the biggest couture houses of the early twentieth...

Fashion in the Gilded Age: A Profile of Newport’s King Family

Twentieth-Century American Fashion

Berg, 2008

Book chapter

...Editors’ Introduction: By the turn of the twentieth century Americans had seen tremendous growth through industrialization. While this progress aided the development of a substantial middle class, there were still large numbers of European...

Bosnia and Herzegovina: Ethnic Dress

Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion Volume 9 : East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus

Berg, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Ethnic dress in Bosnia and Herzegovina, which preserved rather archaic and diversified items of clothing, mostly belonged to the Dinaric type (the dress of western Bosnia and Herzegovina); the central Bosnian type (the dress of the areas...

Dress of the Ranas of Nepal

Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion Volume 4 : South Asia and Southeast Asia

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Rana rule in Nepal began in 1846, when, against a background of internecine strife within the ruling elite, Jung Bahadur (1816–1877) seized power. By 1850 Jung Bahadur had removed all his rivals, installed a new king on the throne...

Lucile

The Berg Companion to Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Although many of Lady Duff-Gordon’s claims to originality and innovation are now discredited, her high-end dressmaking firm Lucile remains a potent example of early British couture. Although at the forefront of designing and merchanting...

Understanding Uniform: An Introduction

Jane Tynan

Jane Tynan is Senior Lecturer in Cultural and Historical Studies for the Fashion Programme at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Lisa Godson

Lisa Godson is Programme Leader of the MA in Design History and Material Culture at the National College of Art and Design, Dublin, UK. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Uniform : Clothing and Discipline in the Modern World

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2019

Book chapter

...In Hermann Broch’s The Sleepwalkers (1932), the protagonist Joachim von Pasenow ponders the qualities of military uniform:. . . it is the uniform’s true function to manifest and ordain order in the world, to arrest the confusion and flux...

Poiret, Paul

The Berg Companion to Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Before Paul Poiret (1879–1944), there was the couture: clothing whose raison d’être was beauty as well as the display of wealth and taste. Paul Poiret brought a new element of fashion to the couture; thanks to him fashion can be a mirror...

“Every girl had a fan which she kept always in motion”:

Dilia López-Gydosh

Dilia López-Gydosh

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Marsha A. Dickson

Marsha Dickson is a professor and Chairperson of the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Latin American Fashion Reader

Berg Publishers, 2005

Book chapter

...The quote “Every girl had a fan which she kept always in motion” is part of an observation made by an American writer who attended an aristocratic ball in Puerto Rico in 1899. See Samoiloff (1984: 101).In 1898 the island of Puerto Rico...

Simmel, Georg

The Berg Companion to Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...The German sociologist and philosopher Georg Simmel was born in Berlin on 1 March 1858 to assimilated Jewish parents. Between 1876 and 1881 Simmel studied history and philosophy in Berlin. His doctoral thesis (1881) and post-doctoral...

Worth, Charles Frederick

The Berg Companion to Fashion

Bloomsbury Academic, 2010

Encyclopedia entry

...Four generations of Worths are associated with perhaps the most enduring name in fashion history. Indeed, without the house’s contributions to fashion, the French Second Empire would not be remembered as an unending parade of luxurious...