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...Martin Margiela was born in Limbourg, Belgium, in 1959. He was schooled at the Antwerp Royal Academy and assisted Jean Paul Gaultier from 1984 to 1987. In 1987 Margiela founded Maison Martin Margiela (MMM) in Paris. MMM’s output is known...

Vintage Whores and Vintage Virgins: Second Hand Fashion in the Twenty-first Century

Alexandra Palmer

Alexandra Palmer is the Nora E. Vaughan Fashion Costume Senior Curator at the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada. She also teaches at the University of Toronto. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Old Clothes, New Looks : Second Hand Fashion

Berg Publishers, 2005

Book chapter

...Why would you wear a new Dior dress that six other women are wearing at the same party when you can buy a dead-designer dress and nobody will have it?Contemporary Western fashionable dress offers numerous style options that cross...
...Footage Referenced Martin Margiela, Spring/Summer 1991 Martin Margiela, Autumn/Winter 1990Introduction One of the designer’s lesser-known shows, Martin Margiela’s Spring/Summer 1991 collection is often eclipsed by others, such as his...

Vintage: Fashioning Time

Heike Jenss

Heike Jenss is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashioning Memory : Vintage Style and Youth Culture

Bloomsbury Academic, 2015

Book chapter

...(Disguising) time in fashion An early usage of the word vintage in the context of clothing can be found in American Vogue. In the rubric “Smart Fashions for Limited Incomes” in the September 1913 issue, the writer offers “Several Ruses...
...Footage Referenced Maison Martin Margiela, Spring/Summer 1996Introduction Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring/Summer 1996 collection presented an ingenious use of material and technique, which has since been integrated in the designer...
...Fashion and Style Coddington was born in 1941 in Anglesey, Wales. In 1959 she moved to London to become a model and worked with youthful, avant-garde designers and photographers in the 1960s. Coddington’s signature style, her red mane...

Vintage Style and Mediated Memories: Sixties DIY

Heike Jenss

Heike Jenss is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashioning Memory : Vintage Style and Youth Culture

Bloomsbury Academic, 2015

Book chapter

...Originals and copies In spite of the importance attributed to old, original second-hand clothes, it is not the case that all clothes worn by sixties stylers are actual survivors from the 1960s. A restriction to old clothes would lead...

Un/Timely Fashion

Heike Jenss

Heike Jenss is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashioning Memory : Vintage Style and Youth Culture

Bloomsbury Academic, 2015

Book chapter

...Pointing out the timeliness of fashion, Elizabeth Wilson writes: “We choose the clothes we wear every day in order to look right now—today. In that sense fashion is very much about the present. It is about fitting in, while, perhaps...
...Fashion and Style From the 1970s until her death in 2012, Anna Piaggi was one of the most recognizable fashion editors in the world. With her shock of bright blue hair, often topped with a doll’s hat worn at a rakish angle, and her penchant...

Closet Evaluation

Nancy Plummer

Nancy Plummer is an Instructor in the Fashion Design & Fashion Merchandising departments at The Illinois Institute of Art Chicago, USA. She also is the owner of the image consulting firm, Fine Threads, Inc. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Your Personal Style

Fairchild Books, 2009

Book chapter

...“A closet full of wire hangers can be the most dangerous place in the world.” Chapter Objectives After reading this chapter, you will be able to: Examine your closet from a fashion personality point of view. Sort clothing in your closet...