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Gaultier: Revaluation of All Values

Barbara Vinken

Barbara Vinken is Professor of French Literature, University of Zurich. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashion Zeitgeist : Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System

Berg, 2005

Book chapter

...With the unerring step of a sleepwalker, Jean-Paul Gaultier’s work goes ever again straight to the concept of taste itself. In questioning taste, he strikes at the very heart of the century of fashion. According to the criteria of the taste...
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...Helmut Lang’s Autumn/Winter 1990 show took place at Paris Fashion Week. The collection featured a range of casual daywear for men and women, in both fitted and loose, flowing silhouettes. Womenswear included a series...
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...Helmut Lang's Spring/Summer 1991 collection was shown in Paris and featured menswear and womenswear. The collection had an overall theme of minimalism that was fashionable in the 1990s; Lang was one of the forerunners in utilising...
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...Helmut Lang's 1993 Fall/ Winter collection took place at Paris Fashion Week and showed both men’s and womenswear. This collection featured Helmut Lang's signature minimalist, deconstructionist look demonstrated through a monochromatic...
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...Helmut Lang’s Autumn/Winter 1996 show was presented at Paris Fashion Week. Walking a square runway flanked on either side by the audience, models strode stoney-faced and forcefully in small groups, each with a theme or color scheme specific...
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...Helmut Lang’s Autumn/Winter 1997 show for his eponymous label was presented at Paris Fashion Week. Lang was known for his minimalist and deconstructivist designs, silhouettes were slim-cut and close to the body, with slinky jersey tank tops...
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...Helmut Lang’s Autumn/Winter 2002 show was presented at New York Fashion Week. It featured intricately tailored womenswear and menswear in minimal, androgynous silhouettes and blazers, jackets, coats, and oxford shirts, alongside slashed...
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...Helmut Lang’s Autumn/Winter 1993 womenswear and menswear show for his eponymous brand was presented at Paris Fashion Week. The collection encompassed Lang’s famed ‘basic but elegant silhouettes’ and master tailoring in high-tech fabrics...
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...Helmut Lang's Spring/Summer 1994 show was presented at Paris Fashion Week. Rosemary Ferguson, Kirsten Owen and Stella Tennant walked the runway wearing layered minimalist garments in clashing materials including cotton, leather, chiffons...
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...Helmut Lang’s Spring/Summer 1997 show for his eponymous brand was presented at Paris Fashion Week. Lang created a collection based on classic garments, transforming them with transparent fabrics, soft layering and new materials...