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...The Object in Detail “Angie” is a knee-length version of a robe à la française (also known as a Watteau gown or sack-back gown: an eighteenth-century corseted open robe with matching skirt, supported by hoops, and flat double pleats hanging...

Raf Simons

Designer biography

...As creative director at Dior (April 2012–) and Jil Sander (July 2005–February 2012), and as head of his own label (1995–), Belgian fashion designer Raf Simons (b. 1968) is known for his versatile design talent. His own label, focusing...
...The Collection in Context The presentation of Galliano’s spring/summer 1999 ready-to-wear collection for Dior was his first to be staged in-house at the Avenue Montaigne salon. It was not, however, a simple catwalk show. Galliano’s detailed...
...The Collection in Context During the spring/summer 2000 ready-to-wear shows presented in Paris in October 1999, there was much talk about a certain 1970s and 1980s sexy, ladylike glamour revival, something that had to do with A-line fluid...

Skinny Boys and Parisian Runways: The Commodification of Indie Authenticity

Rachel Lifter

Rachel Lifter is Assistant Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA. Her writing appears in Fashion Cultures Revisited (2013), Fashioning Professionals (Bloomsbury 2018), and Fashion Stylists (Bloomsbury forthcoming 2020). Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Fashioning Indie : Popular Fashion, Music and Gender

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020

Book chapter

...In the mid-2000s, at the helm of Dior Homme, Hedi Slimane placed the indie musician at the center of popular fashion. His intervention would upend the menswear industry and establish a new ideal of fashionable masculinity based...
...John Galliano was born in Gibraltar, Spain, in 1960. His family moved to Streatham, London, when he was six. He went on to study fashion at Central Saint Martins in London. While he was a student, he was employed part-time as a dresser...
...The Collection in Context The work of Raf Simons must be seen through the development of Belgian fashion in the late twentieth century. The rise of Belgian fashion in the mid-1980s happened due to governmental support to the local fashion...

Hedi Slimane (1968–)

Brenda Polan

Brenda Polan is a fashion writer, editor, lecturer and academic. She was formerly fashion editor and women’s page editor of The Guardian and has since written for all Britain’s major newspapers and many magazines. She was until recently Programme Director (Media) at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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and

Roger Tredre

Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Roger Tredre is Course Leader, MA Fashion Communication, at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Prior to his academic career, he worked in newspaper fashion journalism and was the first Editor-in-Chief of WGSN, the online fashion trends and research business. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Great Fashion Designers : From Chanel to McQueen, the names that made fashion history

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020

Book chapter

...To his admirers, Slimane is the iconoclastic creator of real clothes for real young people.In 2000, Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld famously went on a crash diet, losing 94 lbs in double-quick time. The reason had nothing to do with his...
...The Collection in Context Theatrical extravagance, artistic splendor, and nostalgia had not proved to be the primary sources of inspiration for most fashion designers of the 1990s. Minimalism, grunge, or hip-hop had dominated the decade...

Fashion as a Dynamic Process

Andrew Reilly

Andrew Reilly, PhD, is an Associate Professor of Fashion Design and Merchandising at University of Hawaii, Manoa, US. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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The Meanings of Dress

Fairchild Books, 2019

Book chapter

...After you have read this chapter, you will understand: Why fashion is a social process that continually changes and evolves The complex interaction of cultural, industrial, group, and individual...